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Salvador Enhances the Senses
AAA Touch Magazine

Most travelers going to Brazil for the first time think of Rio before ever sojourning to Salvador, a coastal city steeped in an exotic culture, mysticism and awesome architecture. I certainly was glad I didn’t bypass this Bahian beauty and historic gem on my recent visit to Brazil.

Founded in 1549 by the Portuguese, Salvador became Brazil’s first colonial capital which it remained until 1763. The Portuguese were responsible for bringing some 5 million African slaves through its thriving ports to work in the mines, and sugar and coffee plantations.

Praca Da Se in historic town - Photo by Beverly Mann

Authentic dress of times past in Salvador
Photo by Beverly Mann

The exotic blend of the Afro-Brazilian culture has created the charismatic charm, spicy flavors, and lively rhythms of Brazil’s third largest and most cherished city. Also the integration of African voodoo or candomble with Catholicism further mystifies Salvador.

Another allure to Salvador is the location and warm weather. Bathed by the Atlantic Ocean, with approximately 33 miles of coastal beaches, draped with palm trees and thatched roof huts, the city has year-round sunshine glowing on its approximate 2 million inhabitants.

Just a few hours flight from Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, Salvador makes it an easy stopover within Brazil. The city, with its stark contrast to the richness and stylishness of Rio, has a mystery and antiquity that intrigues its first-time visitor, but often takes one by surprise. Unfortunately, it’s not the best of Salvador that the traveler first sees.

Upon my arrival from the airport, my cab ride passed a flow of favelas (depressed neighborhoods), and giant modern high rises - not too impressive at first glance. The only sight that caught my eye on the way to my hotel was the Dique do Tororo, where larger-than-life statues (a creation of Bahian artist Tati Moreno) adorned with intricate carved crowns and filigree dresses floated upon a lake amid an illuminated fountain.

Praca Da Se in historic town
Photo by Beverly Mann

Though an unusual sight, the true magical and mystical qualities of this populated city were not revealed at first introduction until I ventured further away from the commercial surroundings toward the beaches and ancient dwellings. It was my arrival at Pelourinho (a.k.a. Pelo), the historic quarters, where my real introduction to Salvador began. Pelourinho touts a colorful, spirited world of architecture, art and music. Pelourinho means whipping post in Portuguese. This area was the old slave auction area until 1835. Today, this locale reaps the gifts and talents of its African legacy.

Rows of pastel pink and blue, sunny yellow and orange buildings embrace the cobblestone streets, exhibiting the Americas’ largest collection of colonial edifices. The city also has an inordinate number of churches, dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, scattered throughout the serpentine pathways.

Declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO, the historic center bursts forth with joyous Afro-Brazilian rhythms and songs, with sounds of copoeira resounding behind the ancient walls and neighboring churches.

Streets are brilliantly electrified with bold, colorful artwork and handcrafted jewelry, voodoo dolls and trinkets, amid natives in traditional Bahian dress - large bustled, hoop dresses with huge white cloths covering their heads to deflect the hot, tropical sun.

The women entice the tourists with their sing-song accents hoping to sell their wares, as ongoing vendors combing the streets offer candy, ice cream, peanuts and the local specialty, acaraje, an aromatic rice dish with deep-fried, black-eyed pea cakes. Acaraje is usually served with camarao, small sundried shrimp. Another popular native dish is abara, beans wrapped in a banana leaf and boiled.

Beware of some aggressive street vendors who may follow you for a block or two. Two ladies dressed in traditional costume pleaded to have my picture taken with them and afterward made it clear that $5 (USD) were what they expected for taking my photo with my camera.

Carts clustered with green coconuts add further color to the vibrant scene of Salvador’s popular squares. Children run freely rejoicing in the sounds, tastes and sights around them.

The city bus ($1.50 USD) or a local cab are the easiest and most accessible ways to get to and from this historic hub from most of the surrounding beach resorts. I stayed at a charming, reasonably priced B&B, Pousada Manga Rosa, at Porto da Barra, a popular beachfront area just south and 15 minutes away from the old town.

The bus dropped me off just walking distance to the main square, Praca Da Se, marked by the a giant white cross and memorial built in 1552, where a sacred church once stood.

This also acts as a great vantage point to view the naval pier and Mecado Modelo, a massive marketplace below, which can be reached by walking down a steep pathway. I braved this hike for quite an aerobic workout, eyeing artisans hammering leather goods along the way. I suggest taking the elevator back for a few small coins.

Artwork in Pelourinho lining the cobblestone streets
Photo by Beverly Mann

Further into the square stands a flowing fountain, a refreshing reprieve from the dry heat. Seated on one of the concrete benches, I enjoyed people watching.

As I continued, around the curving streets, I came to the central square, Largo Pelourinho, with its extensive array of colonial architecture and churches where I felt transported back centuries. It is quite easy to get lost in this maze of color, sound and art overpowering the narrow cobblestone streets. Along the way, I encountered the Foundation House of Jorge Amado, an early 1930s writer and notable Bahian native.

I was particularly taken by the exquisite pastel-blue church, Nossa Senhora do Rosario dos Pretos, on Rua J. Castro Ravelo.

As I walked down the hill toward the marketplace, I heard music and clapping resounding from one of the buildings. I entered and noticed a copoeira class of young students and adults accompanied by live musicians in full swing at Fundacao Mestre Bimba. An audience encircled the performers as people clapped and cheered the participants. The high energy pervading this district during the day was mild compared to evening hours.

At night, the area transforms into one wild party, with swarms of young people dancing in the streets, chatting at outside tables and greeting each other with a friendly obrigado. Dida is one popular club on Rua Gregorio de Mattes which attracts tourists and locals.

On the bus ride back to my hotel at Porto da Barra, I passed the Marina area and Bay of Todos os Santos, exhibiting more lushness, upscale homes and three- or four-story white apartments and condos. Just past my hotel stop stood the Museu Nautico da Bahia, a 16th-century fort and the first of its kind in South America. I found the museum quite educational in regard to the history of Portuguese navigation and slavery. The outdoor café had a sprawling view of the bay and was a quiet place away from the beach crowds.

Afterward, I hopped on another bus to head further down toward Ondina, a more posh section of town with a myriad of boutiques, upscale stores and restaurants. Hotel Vila Galle, located in this area, offers two international restaurants for dining.

Coco Verde, green coconuts of Salvador
Photo by Beverly Mann

Along the beach area, among the bars and sporadic Internet cafes, were rows of eateries releasing the spicy aromas of fried fish and fresh vegetables cooked in the flavorful dende oil, made from the nuts of local palms. A man with a cart of green coconuts stopped. With a quick flick of his small machete, I was able to taste the clear soothing liquid encased in the shell. This was not the familiar milky coconut drink that I had expected.

Shopping Barra, the city’s main modern mall, is not far from Ondina and Porto da Barra. Though not near the size of malls we may know, the shopping center contained a cinema complex, autotellers, a myriad of food concessions and a photo shop where I transferred my digital pictures onto a CD. Here, at Perini’s, is where I tasted the yummiest ice cream, an unexpected gourmet trick of dark chocolate ice cream blended with crunchy nuts.

Before sunset, I returned to the Porto da Barra beachside. I sat on a patch of grass by a nearby hillside underneath a palm overlooking the steel-blue bay. Several toned body surfers rode the last crest of the waves, while a strong, agile man practiced his copoeira on the sand nearby as if in his own world.

A triangle of sailboats in the distance floated atop the silvery blue waters in a comforting calm contrasting the hyperactivity of the day. Vendors, children and joggers almost appeared now in slow motion. The sky changed from dark amber to scarlet, pink and blue, offsetting the silhouette of the mountainside. The outline of clouds were still apparent and blanketing the atmosphere in navy blue.

I was totally mesmerized by the scenery, when a cool, tropical breeze glazed my skin and a distant chatter of voices emanated from the bistros and bars. The sound and activity was just enough to remind me that sensual, spirited Salvador never really sleeps and is forever casting its spell.

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